Immersion Liquid Cooling Systems for Cryptomining ...
Immersion Liquid Cooling Systems for Cryptomining ...
Will liquid-cooled mining rigs maximize profits? - MinedHash
Alphacool Launches the Mining Rig 12 Open Air Frame Case ...
GPU vs ASIC Mining Compared — BitcoinChaser
Will Liquid Cooled GPU Mining Rigs Maximize Profits?
18 P106-100 & 1 P104-100 Mining Rig Build
19 GPU Build with ASUS B250 Mining Expert - 470MH/s
Its my dream to achieve and build a mining rig of this extent. Allow me to describe this journey of mine to the GPU mining community. Kudos to all! Feel free to ask me questions and I would love to help you out.
2017 - Bull Market - Dipped my toes into the GPU mining market. Spent nearly 3k USD, 6x GTX 1060 3GB & 2x GTX 1070ti.
I exited this market back at the very end of the bull run and never touched Bitcoin until 2019. I began to plan my future, created an investment portfolio where I finally included Bitcoin back into my high risk asset class. The resurgence of Bitcoin mining begans :)
2019 - Sold my Ryzen 7 1700 & MB for ASUS B250 Mining Expert with 19 GPU build in mind
I literally have tens of thousands of dollars in top-shelf hardware, looking to repurpose some before selling on eBay to build a NAS system, possibly a dedicated firewall device as well. o_O
Q1) What will you be doing with this PC? Be as specific as possible, and include specific games or programs you will be using.** A1) This will be a dedicated NAS system for my home network. As such, I'm looking to have it: - Host ##TB's of 720, 1080 & up resolution Movies and TV Shows I'm about to begin ripping from a MASSIVE DVD & Blueray collection I have. - My kids are big on Minecraft. I understand it's possible to host your own "worlds" (or whatever they call the maps you can build) on your own "server". I think it would be pretty neat to offer them (& their friends - if can be done 'safely/securely') their own partition on one of my NAS HDD's. - I also have accounts with a couple diff VPN companies... I understand it's possible (?) to sync said VPN's with a NAS, this might be a more relative topic on the next point/purpose... - I'd like to be able to remotely link to this NAS for when I travel overseas and want to stream at my temp location from my house/this NAS. ______________________ Q2) What is your maximum budget before rebates/shipping/taxes?** * A2) Here's where I make matters more complicated than most others would... I've been an advocate for Bitcoin and crypto-currencies in general since 2013. I invested in a small mining outfit back in 2014 (strictly Bitcoin/ASIC's). One of my buddies is the President of a large-scale mining operation (foreign and domestic) and he convinced me to dabble in the GPU mining-space. I made my first hardware purchase in Q4, 2017 and launched a small-scale GPU-Farm in my house since then. I had the rigs mining up until Q3 of 2018 (not cost-efficient to keep on, especially living in SoFlo) and since then, the hardware's been collecting dust (& pissing off my family members since they lost access to 3X rooms in the house - I won't let anyone go near my gear). One of my New Years Resolutions for 2019 was to clear out the house of all my mining equipment so that's all about to go up on eBay. So "budget" is relative to whatever I "MUST" spend if I can't repurpose any of the parts I already have on hand for this build... (Anyone having something I "need" and is looking to barter for one of the items I'll list later on in here, LMK). ______________________ Q3) When do you plan on building/buying the PC? Note: beyond a week or two from today means any build you receive will be out of date when you want to buy.** A3) IMMEDIATELY! :) ______________________ Q4) What, exactly, do you need included in the budget? (ToweOS/monitokeyboard/mouse/etc\)** A4) Well I had a half-assed idea approximately 1 year ago that it might be wise to build a bunch of 'gaming rigs' to sell on eBay with my intended repurposed mining hardware so I went on a shopping spree for like 6 months. That said; I've got a plethora of various other components that aren't even unboxed yet. 90% of the items I've purchased for this additional project were items that were marked down via MIR (mail-in-rebates) & what-not...
AFAIK, there are only 3X items I absolutely do not have which I 'MUST' find. Those would be - 1) Motherboard which accepts "ECC RAM". 2) CPU for said MOBO. 3) Said "ECC RAM".\*
______________________ Q5) Which country (and state/province) will you be purchasing the parts in? If you're in US, do you have access to a Microcenter location?** A5) I'm located in Southwest Florida. No Microcenter's here. Best Buy is pretty much my only option although I am a member of Newegg, Amazon & Costco if that makes any difference? ______________________ Q6) If reusing any parts (including monitor(s)/keyboard/mouse/etc), what parts will you be reusing? Brands and models are appreciated.** A6) In an attempt to better clean up this Q&A, I'm going to list the items I have on-hand at the end of this questionnaire in-case passers-by feel like this might be a TLDR.* (Scroll to the bottom & you'll see what I mean). ______________________ Q7) Will you be overclocking? If yes, are you interested in overclocking right away, or down the line? CPU and/or GPU?** A7) I don't think that's necessary for my intended purpose although - I'm not against it if that helps & FWIW, I'm pretty skilled @ this task already (it's not rocket science). ______________________ Q8) Are there any specific features or items you want/need in the build? (ex: SSD, large amount of storage or a RAID setup, CUDA or OpenCL support, etc)** A8) As stated in A4; ECC RAM is non-negotiable... RAID seems like a logical application here as well. - This will predominantly be receiving commands from MacOS computers. I don't think that matters really but figured it couldn't hurt to let you guys know.\* - I'd also be quite fond of implementing "PFSENSE" (or something of that caliber) applied to this system so I could give my Netgear Nighthawks less stress in that arena, plus my limited understanding of PFSENSE is that it's ability to act as a firewall runs circles around anything that comes with consumer-grade Wi-Fi routers (like my Nighthawks). Just the same, I'm open to building a second rig just for the firewall.\* - Another desirable feature would be that it draws as little electricity from the wall as possible. (I'm EXTREMELY skilled in this arena. I have "Kill-A-Watts" to test/gauge on, as well as an intimate understanding of the differences between Silver, Gold, Platinum and Titanium rated PSU's. As well as having already measured each of the PSU's I have on-hand and taken note of the 'target TDP draw' ("Peak Power Efficiency Draw") each one offers when primed with X amount of GPU's when I used them for their original purpose.\* - Last, but not least, sound (as in noise created from the rig). I'd like to prop this device up on my entertainment center in the living room. I've (almost) all of the top-shelf consumer grade products one could dream of regarding fans and other thermal-related artifacts. - Almost forgot; this will be hosting to devices on the KODI platform (unless you guys have better alternative suggestions?) ______________________ Q9) Do you have any specific case preferences (Size like ITX/microATX/mid-towefull-tower, styles, colors, window or not, LED lighting, etc), or a particular color theme preference for the components?** A9) Definitely! Desired theme would be WHITE. If that doesn't work for whatever reason, black or gray would suffice. Regarding "Case Size". Nah, that's not too important although I don't foresee a mini-ITX build making sense if I'm going to be cramming double digit amounts of TB in the system, Internal HDD's sounds better than a bunch of externals plugged in all the USB ports. ______________________ Q10) Do you need a copy of Windows included in the budget? If you do need one included, do you have a preference?** A10) I don't know. If I do need a copy of Windows, I don't have one so that's something I'll have to consider I guess. I doubt that's a necessity though. ______________________ ______________________ ______________________ **Extra info or particulars:*\* AND NOW TO THE FUN-STUFF... Here's a list of everything (PARTS PARTS PARTS) I have on-hand and ready to deploy into the wild &/or negotiate a trade/barter with: CASES - Corsair Carbide Series Air 540 Arctic White (Model# Crypto-Currency-9011048-WW) - (Probably my top pick for this build). Cooler Master HAF XB EVO (This is probably my top 1st or 2nd pick for this build, the thing is a monster!). Cooler Master Elite 130 - Mini ITX - Black Cooler Master MasterBox 5 MID-Tower - Black & White Raidmax Sigma-TWS - ATX - White MasterBox Lite 5 - ATX - Black w/ diff. Colored accent attachments (included with purchase) NZXT S340 Elite Matte White Steel/Tempered Glass Edition EVGA DG-76 Alpine White - Mid Tower w/ window EVGA DG-73 Black - Mid Tower w/ window (I have like 3 of these) ______________________ CPU's - ***7TH GEN OR BELOW INTEL's ("Code Name Class mentioned next to each one)**\* Pentium G4400 (Skylake @54W TDP) - Intel ARK states is "ECC CAPABLE" Celeron G3930 (Kaby Lake @ 51W TDP) - Intel ARK states is "ECC CAPABLE" :) i5 6402P (Skylake @65W TDP) - Intel ARK states is "NOT ECC CAPABLE" :( i5 6600k (Skylake @ 91W TDP) - Intel ARK states is "NOT ECC CAPABLE" :( i7 6700 (Skylake @ 65W TDP) - Intel ARK states is "NOT ECC CAPABLE" :( i7 7700k (Kaby Lake @ 95W TDP) - Intel ARK states is "NOT ECC CAPABLE" :( ***8TH GEN INTEL's **\* i3-8350K (Coffee Lake @91W TDP) - Intel ARK states is "ECC FRIENDLY" :) I5-8600K (Coffee Lake @95W TDP) - Intel ARK states is "NOT ECC CAPABLE" :( ***AMD RYZEN's **\* Ryzen 3 2200G Ryzen 5 1600 Ryzen 7 1700X ______________________ MOTHERBOARDS - ***7TH GEN AND BELOW INTEL BASED MOBO'S - **\* MSI Z170A-SLI ASUS PRIME Z270-A ASUS PRIME Z270-P ASUS PRIME Z270-K EVGA Z270 Stinger GIGABYTE GA-Z270XP-SLI MSI B150M ARCTIC MSI B250M MICRO ATX (PRO OPT. BOOST EDITION) ***8TH GEN INTEL BASED MOBO'S - **\* EVGA Z370 FTW GIGABYTE Z370XP SLI (Rev. 1.0) MSI Z370 SLI PLUS ***AMD RYZEN BASED MOBO'S - **\* ASUS ROG STRIX B350-F GAMING MSI B350 TOMAHAWK MSI X370 GAMING PRO ASROCK AB350M PRO4 ______________________ RAM - Way too many to list, nothing but 4 & 8GB DDR4 sticks and unfortunately, none are ECC so it's not even worth mentioning/listing these unless someone reading this is willing to barter. At which time I'd be obliged to send an itemized list or see if I have what they're/you're specifically looking for.\* ______________________ THERMAL APPLICATIONS/FANS - JUST FANS - BeQuiet - Pure Wings 2 (80mm) Pure Wings 2 (120mm) Pure Wings 2 (140mm) Silent Wings 3 PWM (120mm) NOCTUA - PoopBrown - NF-A20 PWM (200mm) Specifically for the BIG "CoolerMaster HAF XB EVO" Case GREY - NF-P12 Redux - 1700RPM (120mm) PWM Corsair - Air Series AF120LED (120mm) CPU COOLING SYSTEMS - NOCTUA - NT-HH 1.4ml Thermal Compound NH-D15 6 Heatpipe system (this thing is the tits) EVGA (Extremely crappy coding in the software here, I'm like 99.99% these will be problematic if I were to try and use in any OS outside of Windows, because they barely ever work in the intended Windows as it is). CLC 240 (240mm Water-cooled system CRYORIG - Cryorig C7 Cu (Low-Profile Copper Edition*) A few other oversized CPU cooling systems I forget off the top of my head but a CPU cooler is a CPU cooler after comparing to the previous 3 models I mentioned. I almost exclusively am using these amazing "Innovation Cooling Graphite Thermal Pads" as an alternative to thermal paste for my CPU's. They're not cheap but they literally last forever. NZXT - Sentry Mesh Fan Controller ______________________ POWER SUPPLIES (PSU's) - BeQuiet 550W Straight Power 11 (GOLD) EVGA - 750P2 (750W, Platinum) 850P2 (850W, Platinum) 750T2 (750W, TITANIUM - yeah baby, yeah) ROSEWILL - Quark 750W Platinum Quark 650W Platinum SEASONIC - Focus 750W Platinum ______________________ STORAGE - HGST Ultrastar 3TB - 64mb Cache - 7200RPM Sata III (3.5) 4X Samsung 860 EVO 500GB SSD's 2X Team Group L5 LITE 3D 2.5" SSD's 480GB 2X WD 10TB Essential EXT (I'm cool with shucking) + 6X various other external HDD's (from 4-8TB) - (Seagate, WD & G-Drives) ______________________ Other accessories worth mentioning - PCI-E to 4X USB hub-adapter (I have a dozen or so of these - might not be sufficient enough &/or needed but again, 'worth mentioning' in case I somehow ever run out of SATA & USB ports and have extra external USB HDD's. Although, I'm sure there would be better suited components if I get to that point that probably won't cost all that much). ______________________ ______________________ ______________________ Needless to say, I have at least 1X of everything mentioned above. In most all cases, I have multiples of these items but obviously won't be needing 2X CPU's, Cases, etc... Naturally, I have GPU's. Specifically; At least 1X of every. Single. NVIDIA GTX 1070 TI (Yes, I have every variation of the 1070 ti made by MSI, EVGA and Zotac. The only brand I don't have is the Gigabyte line. My partners have terrible experience with those so I didn't even bother. I'm clearly not going to be needing a GPU for this build but again, I'm cool with discussing the idea of a barter if anyone reading this is in the market for one. I also have some GTX 1080 TI's but those are already spoken for, sorry. It's my understanding that select CPU's I have on this list are ECC Friendly and AFAIK, only 1 of my MOBO's claims to be ECC Friendly (The ASROCK AB350M PRO4), but for the life of me, I can't find any corresponding forums that confirm this and/or direct me to a listing where I can buy compatible RAM. Just the same, if I go w/ the ASROCK MOBO, that means I'd be using one of the Ryzens. Those are DEF. power hungry little buggers. Not a deal-breaker, just hoping to find something a little more conservative in terms of TDP. In closing, I don't really need someone to hold my hand with the build part as much as figuring out which motherboard, CPU and RAM to get. Then I'm DEFINITELY going to need some guidance on what OS is best for my desired purpose. If building 2X Rigs makes sense, I'm totally open to that as well... Rig 1 = EPIC NAS SYSTEM Rig 2 = EPIC PFSENSE (or the like) DEDICATED FIREWALL Oh, I almost forgot... The current routers I'm using are... 1X Netgear Nighthawk 6900P (Modem + Router) 1X Netgear Nighthawk X6S (AC 4000 I believe - Router dedicated towards my personal devices - no IoT &/or Guests allowed on this one) 1X TP-Link Archer C5 (Router). Total overkill after implementing the Nighthawks but this old beast somehow has the best range, plus it has 2X USB ports so for now, it's dedicated towards my IoT devices. ---- I also have a few other Wi-Fi routers (Apple Airport Extreme & some inferior Netgear's but I can only allocate so many WiFi Routers to so many WiFi channels w/out pissing off my neighbors) On that note, I have managed to convince my neighbors to let me in their house/WiFi configuration so we all have our hardware locked on specific, non-competing frequencies/channels so everyone's happy. :) Please spare me the insults as I insulted myself throughout this entire venture. Part of why I did this was because when I was a kid, I used to fantasize about building a 'DREAM PC' but could never afford such. To compensate for this deficiency, I would actually print out the latest and greatest hardware components on a word document, print the lists up & tape to wall (for motivation). I was C++ certified at the age of 14 and built my first PC when I was 7. At the age of 15 I abandoned all hope in the sector and moved on to other aspirations. This entire ordeal was largely based off me finally fulfilling a childhood fantasy. On that note = mission accomplished. Now if I'm actually able to fulfill my desires on this post, I'm definitely going to feel less shitty about blowing so much money on all this stuff over the last couple years. TIA for assisting in any way possible. Gotta love the internets! THE END. :) EDIT/UPDATE (5 hours after OP) - My inbox is being inundated with various people asking for prices and other reasonable questions about my hardware being up for sale. Not to be redundant but rather to expound on my previous remarks about 'being interested in a bartetrade' with any of you here... I did say I was going to sell my gear on eBay in the near future, I also said I wanted to trade/barter for anything relative to helping me accomplish my OP's mission(s). I'm not desperate for the $$$ but I'm also not one of those people that likes to rip other people off. That said; I value my time and money invested in this hardware and I'm only willing to unload it all once I've established I have ZERO need for any of it here in my home first. Hence my writing this lengthy thread in an attempt to repurpose at least a grand or two I've already spent. One of the most commonly asked questions I anticipate receiving from interested bodies is going to be "How hard were you on your hardware?" Contrary to what anyone else would have probably done in my scenario which is say they were light on it whether they were or weren't, I documented my handling of the hardware, and have no problem sharing such documentation with verified, interested buyers (WHEN THE TIME COMES) to offer you guys peace of mind. I have photo's and video's of the venture from A-Z. I am also obliged to provide (redacted) electricity bill statements where you can correlate my photo's (power draw on each rig), and also accurately deduct the excess power my house consumed with our other household appliances. Even taking into consideration how much (more) I spent in electricity from keeping my house at a constant, cool 70-72F year-round (via my Nest thermostat). Even without the rigs, I keep my AC @ 70 when I'm home and for the last 1.5-2 years, I just so happened to spend 85% of my time here at my house. When I would travel, I'd keep it at 72 for my wife & kids. Additionally; I had each GPU 'custom' oveunderclocke'd (MSI Afterburner for all GPU's but the EVGA's).* I doubt everyone reading this is aware so this is for those that don't.... EVGA had the brilliant idea of implementing what they call "ICX technology" in their latest NVIDIA GTX GPU's. The short(est) explanation of this "feature" goes as follows: EVGA GPU's w/ "ICX 9 & above" have EXTRA HEAT/THERMAL SENSORS. Unlike every other GTX 1070 ti on the market, the one's with this feature actually have each of 2/2 on-board fans connected to individual thermal sensors. Which means - if you were to use the MSI Afterburner program on one of these EVGA's and create a custom fan curve for it, you'd only be able to get 1/2 of the fans to function the way intended. The other fan simply would not engage as the MSI Afterburner software wasn't designed/coded to recognize/ communicate with an added sensor (let alone sensor'S). This, in-turn, would likely result in whoever's using it the unintended way having a GPU defect on them within the first few months I'd imagine... Perhaps if they had the TDP power settings dumbed down as much as I did (60-63%), they might get a year or two out of it since it wouldn't run as near as hot, but I doubt any longer than that since cutting off 50% of the cooling system on one of these can't be ignored too long, surely capacitors would start to blow and who knows what else... (Warning = RANT) Another interesting side-note about the EVGA's and their "Precision-X" OveUnderclocking software is that it's designed to only recognize 4X GPU's on a single system. For miners, that's just not cool. My favorite builds had 8X and for the motherboards that weren't capable of maintaining stable sessions on 8, I set up with 6X. Only my EVGA Rigs had 3 or 4X GPU's dedicated to a single motherboard. Furthermore, and as stated in an earlier paragraph, (& this is just my opinion) = EVGA SOFTWARE SUCKS! Precision X wasn't friendly with every motherboard/CPU I threw at it and their extension software for the CLC Close-Loop-Cooling/ CPU water-coolers simply didn't work on anything, even integrating into their own Precision-X software. The amount of time it took me to finally find compatible matches with that stuff was beyond maddening. (END RANT). Which leads me to my other comments on the matter. That's what I had every single 1070 ti set at for TDP = 60-63%. Dropping the power load that much allowed me to bring down (on average) each 1070 ti to a constant 110-115W (mind you, this is only possible w/ "Titanium" rated PSU's, Platinum comes pretty damn close to the Titanium though) while mining Ethereum and was still able to maintain a bottom of 30 MH/s and a ceiling of 32 MH/s. Increasing the TDP to 80, 90, 100% or more only increased my hashrates (yields) negligibly, like 35-36 MH/s TOPS, which also meant each one was not only pulling 160-180W+ (Vs. the aforementioned 115'ish range), it also meant my rigs were creating a significantly greater amount of heat! Fortunately for the GPU's and my own personal habits, I live in South Florida where it's hot as balls typically, last winter was nothing like this one. Increasing my yields by 10-15% didn't justify increasing the heat production in my house by >30%, nor the added electricity costs from subjecting my AC handlers to that much of an extra work-load. For anyone reading this that doesn't know/understand what I'm talking about - after spending no less than 2-3 hours with each. and. every. one. I didn't play with the settings on just one and universally apply the settings to the rest. I found the 'prime' settings and documented them with a label-maker and notepad. Here's the math in a more transparent manner: *** I NEVER LET MY GPU's BREACH 61C, EVER. Only my 8X GPU rigs saw 60-61 & it was the ones I had in the center of the build (naturally). I have REALLY high power fans (used on BTC ASIC MINERS) that were sucking air from those GPU's which was the only way I was able to obtain such stellar results while mining with them. **\* Mining at "acceptable" heat temps (not acceptable to me, but most of the internet would disagree = 70C) and overclocking accordingly brings in X amount of yields per unit. = 'Tweaking' (underclocking) the GPU's to my parameters reduced my yield per unit from -10-15%, but it SAVED me well over 30-35% in direct electricity consumption, and an unknown amount of passive electricity consumption via creating approximately 20%+ less heat for my AC handler to combat. I say all this extra stuff not just for anyone interested in mining with their GPU's, but really to answer (in-depth) the apparent questions you people are asking me in PM's. Something else that should help justify my claims of being so conservative should be the fact I only have/used "Platinum and Titanium" rated PSU's. Heat production, power efficiency and longevity of the hardware were ALWAYS my top priority.* . I truly thought Crypto would continue to gain and/or recover and bounce back faster than it did. If this project had maintained positive income for 12 months+, I'd have expanded one of our sites to also cater to GPU mining on a gnarly scale. Once I have my NAS (& possibly 2nd rig for the firewall) successfully built, I'll be willing/able to entertain selling you guys some/all of the remaining hardware prior to launching on eBay. If there's something you're specifically looking for that I listed having, feel free to PM me with that/those specific item(s). Don't count on an immediate response but what you can count on is me honoring my word in offering whoever asks first right of refusal when the time comes for me to sell this stuff. Fortunately for me, PM's are time-stamped so that's how I'll gauge everyone's place in line. I hope this extra edit answers most of the questions you guys wanted to have answered and if not, sorry I guess. I'll do my best to bring light to anything I've missed out on after I realize whatever that error was/is. The only way anyone is getting first dibs on my hardware otherwise is if they either offer compelling insight into my original questions, or have something I need to trade w/. THE END (Round#2)
https://preview.redd.it/vs8b0fpg9id41.jpg?width=1280&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7d4a7de2c9b2b712d959b06f4f6e01cbf7e664ca For years now there has been possibilities to increase Bitmain bitcoin miners “antminer” efficiency with custom firmware. It is understandable that Bitmain don’t want their customers to change overclock on their asic miners. OC changes could possibly kill or damage hardware in some cases when chip oc and voltages applied to much. Overclock could kill miner it self or power supply. This is one of the reasons why Bitmain lately locks down their miners firmware, they dont want customers to do any changes on them. The factory settings are standard, whoever is mining for while now. Knows that from some chips you can get better efficiency, just because quality of every chip is not the same. Lately there is been released an upgrade firmware and manual for Antminer S17 from hiveOS. HiveOS is gpu and asic miner monitoring/remote control. They previous firmware for Antminer S9 and T9 has been very successful. We have done review on this firmware also, and the best feature what Bitmain original firmware does not have is auto-chip tuning. It works very well, basically it finds the most optimal chip oc and the voltages to reach best efficiency. https://preview.redd.it/ewt2x2v59id41.jpg?width=1702&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=008de1118c5721a4844cf90c25e4f1fc72b71b73 We have now also tested the new firmware for Antminer S17, it does perform much better then Bitmain original firmware.OnAntminer S17 53TH/s version , air cooled miner we where able to reach 75TH/su/3300watts. It worked very well and setup is straight forward. It is possible to reach even better performance up to 85 TH/s , but you will need immersion cooling. As with air cooled at 75 th/s our miner chip temperatures where close to 80c at room temperature 15c. Also be careful , Bitmani stock power supply Antminer S17 max power usage is 3500 watts. https://preview.redd.it/vwovczl69id41.jpg?width=1952&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=211b252bd225b1dc7e35195bc86c823b2e2ad7ad hiveOS asic miner the installation guide :
And now let’s go back to the installation process. There is no universal manual, for S17 and S17 Pro there are 3 versions of stock firmware. Therefore, every particular case has its own manual on the custom firmware installation. Please note, that all the manual steps which involve using BTCTOOLS can be done via ASIC’s web interface (BTCTOOLS is usually used for a large number of devices).
Scan the network using BTC_TOOLS and export the list to csv. From csv, copy the IP list and insert it in ips.ini. In case you don’t have a lot of devices, you can make this list manually. Or use bitmain ipreporter tool.
Go to config.ini and check login and password for the ASIC’s SSH or web interface. If the password for the web interface was changed, the same would be for SSH. Set up FARM_HASH to connect to Hive or API, if necessary.
If the stock firmware of your ASIC is released before 1 July 2019
Flash your devices with a file from the archive “remsigallbefore_2019–07–01.tar.gz”. This can be done via either ASIC’s web interface or BTC_TOOLS in case you have a lot of devices. You will see an error in status, but this is okay — it should be like this at the moment.
Flash the devices with the firmware file. Again, this can be done via either ASIC’s web interface or BTC_TOOLS.
Launch “3hashfarmforsigned.cmd” from the archive. The ASIC will get connected to the web.
Stock firmware released from July 2019 to December 2019
Launch “1openssh.cmd” from the archive and wait for the script to be performed. The devices will be rebooted. After the reboot, wait for around 3 minutes.
Guys, I have an RX 470 from XFX, and it overheats BAD. It goes up to 95ºC when playing "lighter" games like Kovaak's and CS:GO, but in Fortnite doesn't get that bad: about 85ºC. I have 4 fans, 1 behind for exhaustion, 2 in the front for bringing cool air, and 1 in the front for exhaustion as well. I already put the GPU fans speed on max, but it doesn't help at all, it just makes the PC really, really loud. Have cleaned it twice, last time a few weeks ago, and changed the thermal paste. Does anyone know why it gets hotter on games that are lighter then Fortnite, and how to fix it being so hot? I would really appreciate it. PS: I bought it used from Amazon for 100$ 1 year ago, but it wasn't used for mining bitcoins. And it is not overclocked.
How have your GTX 1080s been? I’m on my fourth RMA and a little perturbed.
Hello, Sorry for some formatting issues, currently typing on my phone. But, I was wanting to ask how your graphics cards have held up, specifically the GTX 1080. I ended up purchasing four for my household, two for me, two for my now wife, and I’m now on my fourth RMA! Now these have been cards that were never overclocked, but have been a variation of liquid cooled ( full and partial ) as well with regular air cooling. But one way or another, the GPUs have had constant issues requiring me send them into EVGA, ironically I just got my third RMA in today and I’m getting ready to send my fourth one out. Now these haven’t all been from the same rig:
First GPU death was using the EVGA Hybrid cooler from my rig and prevented whichever PC it was plugged into from booting. ( Replaced by EVGA RMA )
Second GPU death was air cooled ( wife’s rig ) had unstable FPS in SLI and when left as the primary card, artifacting and a plethora of other issues occurred. ( Replaced by RMA ).
Third GPU was in a full liquid cooling block, as I was paranoid that maybe things weren’t staying cool enough or something was going wrong with a stock cooler or partial liquid cooling- but, this card failed and was actually the first RMA replacement I received. ( New RMA received today )
Fourth GPU death occurred today in my wife’s rig where we had the failure to boot when plugged into any PC.
Now, I’m sure people are going to say it’s the PSU or Motherboard, etc.. But these have been in multiple motherboards, and three different PSUs ( 1x EVGA 1000w P2, 2x EVGA 850w G2 ) and ( 1x Gigabyte z270 Gaming 5, 1x Gigabyte x370 Gaming K7, 1x Gigabyte Z370 Gaming 7 ). These were never overclocked, never used for bitcoin mining and I only did a fur mark test when I got the GPUs to test for any issues ( ran at 10 mins ). All of the GPUs have been EVGA GTX 1080 SCs as well, has anyone else experienced this? Any ideas what could cause this? I’m more concerned for my wife’s rig as she uses it for work, but I’ve had to part off mine due to medical issues, and I just don’t want the new owners to get my issues.
Crypto Mining for Beginners. Is it really worth it?
Image from blokt.com Mining cryptocoins is an arms race that rewards early adopters. You might have heard of Bitcoin, the first decentralized cryptocurrency that was released in early 2009. Similar digital currencies have crept into the worldwide market since then, including a spin-off from Bitcoin called Bitcoin Cash. You can get in on the cryptocurrency rush if you take the time to learn the basics properly.
Which Alt-Coins Should Be Mined?
Image from btcwarp.com If you had started mining Bitcoins back in 2009, you could have earned thousands of dollars by now. At the same time, there are plenty of ways you could have lost money, too. Bitcoins are not a good choice for beginning miners who work on a small scale. The current up-front investment and maintenance costs, not to mention the sheer mathematical difficulty of the process, just doesn't make it profitable for consumer-level hardware. Now, Bitcoin mining is reserved for large-scale operations only. Litecoins, Dogecoins, and Feathercoins, on the other hand, are three Scrypt-based cryptocurrencies that are the best cost-benefit for beginners. Dogecoins and Feathercoins would yield slightly less profit with the same mining hardware but are becoming more popular daily. Peercoins, too, can also be a reasonably decent return on your investment of time and energy. As more people join the cryptocoin rush, your choice could get more difficult to mine because more expensive hardware will be required to discover coins. You will be forced to either invest heavily if you want to stay mining that coin, or you will want to take your earnings and switch to an easier cryptocoin. Understanding the top 3 bitcoin mining methods is probably where you need to begin; this article focuses on mining "scrypt" coins. Also, be sure you are in a country where bitcoins and bitcoin mining is legal.
Is It Worth It to Mine Cryptocoins?
As a hobby venture, yes, cryptocoin mining can generate a small income of perhaps a dollar or two per day. In particular, the digital currencies mentioned above are very accessible for regular people to mine, and a person can recoup $1000 in hardware costs in about 18-24 months. As a second income, no, cryptocoin mining is not a reliable way to make substantial money for most people. The profit from mining cryptocoins only becomes significant when someone is willing to invest $3000-$5000 in up-front hardware costs, at which time you could potentially earn $50 per day or more.
Set Reosonable Expectations
If your objective is to earn substantial money as a second income, then you are better off purchasing cryptocoins with cash instead of mining them, and then tucking them away in the hopes that they will jump in value like gold or silver bullion. If your objective is to make a few digital bucks and spend them somehow, then you just might have a slow way to do that with mining. Smart miners need to keep electricity costs to under $0.11 per kilowatt-hour; mining with 4 GPU video cards can net you around $8.00 to $10.00 per day (depending upon the cryptocurrency you choose), or around $250-$300 per month. The two catches are: 1) The up-front investment in purchasing 4 ASIC processors or 4 AMD Radeon graphic processing units 2) The market value of cryptocoins Now, there is a small chance that your chosen digital currency will jump in value alongside Bitcoin at some point. Then, possibly, you could find yourself sitting on thousands of dollars in cryptocoins. The emphasis here is on "small chance," with small meaning "slightly better than winning the lottery." If you do decide to try cryptocoin mining, definitely do so as a hobby with a very small income return. Think of it as "gathering gold dust" instead of collecting actual gold nuggets. And always, always, do your research to avoid a scam currency.
How Cryptocoin Mining Works
Let's focus on mining scrypt coins, namely Litecoins, Dogecoins, or Feathercoins. The whole focus of mining is to accomplish three things: - Provide bookkeeping services to the coin network. Mining is essentially 24/7 computer accounting called "verifying transactions." - Get paid a small reward for your accounting services by receiving fractions of coins every couple of days. - Keep your personal costs down, including electricity and hardware.
The Laundry List: What You Will Need to Mine Cryptocoins
https://preview.redd.it/gx65tcz0ncg31.jpg?width=1280&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f99b79d0ff96fe7d529dc20d52964b46306fb070 You will need ten things to mine Litecoins, Dogecoins, and/or Feathercoins. 1) A free private database called a coin wallet. This is a password-protected container that stores your earnings and keeps a network-wide ledger of transactions. 2) A free mining software package, like this one from AMD, typically made up of cgminer and stratum. 3) A membership in an online mining pool, which is a community of miners who combine their computers to increase profitability and income stability. 4) Membership at an online currency exchange, where you can exchange your virtual coins for conventional cash, and vice versa. 5) A reliable full-time internet connection, ideally 2 megabits per second or faster speed. 6) A hardware setup location in your basement or other cool and air-conditioned space. 7) A desktop or custom-built computer designed for mining. Yes, you may use your current computer to start, but you won't be able to use the computer while the miner is running. A separate dedicated computer is ideal. Do not use a laptop, gaming console or handheld device to mine. These devices just are not effective enough to generate income. 8) An ATI graphics processing unit (GPU) or a specialized processing device called a mining ASIC chip. The cost will be anywhere from $90 used to $3000 new for each GPU or ASIC chip. The GPU or ASIC will be the workhorse of providing the accounting services and mining work. 10) A house fan to blow cool air across your mining computer. Mining generates substantial heat, and cooling the hardware is critical for your success. 11) You absolutely need a strong appetite of personal curiosity for reading and constant learning, as there are ongoing technology changes and new techniques for optimizing coin mining results. The most successful coin miners spend hours every week studying the best ways to adjust and improve their coin mining performance. Original Blog Post: https://www.lifewire.com/cryptocoin-mining-for-beginners-2483064
Guys, I have an RX 470 from XFX, and it overheats BAD. It goes up to 95ºC when playing "lighter" games like Kovaak's and CS:GO, but in Fortnite doesn't get that bad: about 85ºC. I have 4 fans, 1 behind for exhaustion, 2 in the front for bringing cool air, and 1 in the front for exhaustion as well. I already put the GPU fans speed on max, but it doesn't help at all, it just makes the PC really, really loud. Have cleaned it twice, last time a few weeks ago, and changed the thermal paste. Does anyone know why it gets hotter on games that are lighter then Fortnite, and how to fix it being so hot? I would really appreciate it. PS: I bought it used from Amazon for 100$ 1 year ago, but it wasn't used for mining bitcoins. And it is not overclocked.
Hello buildapc, the title serves as my main question. This is my first attempt at building a pc, and hearing that GPU prices have increased I want to make sure that I am buying the most cost-effective one. My sole purpose in building this pc is for gaming and entertainment. I have $2000 budgeted for this and I want a PC which lasts for as long as possible. Almost all the parts have been bought except the GPU. Initially I was planning to buy an EVGA 1070 SC since the 1080ti was a bit... costly, but a recent conversation with my friend has me hesitating. He has already built his own pc and keeps track of computer parts far more extensively than I do. He strongly suggests that I get a 1080ti for several reasons:
Even if I did get a 1080ti I'd still be within my $2000 dollar limit. Though personally if I can get away with cheaper that would be better.
I've already bought a Ryzen 7 1700x, a B350 motherboard, and a 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4-3200 memory. He argues that the rest of my parts are so high end that a 1070 would limit overall capability by holding everything back.
He said, "Bitcoin mining is irrelevant after 1060." However he's definitely not a bitcoin miner and I'm not sure if he's informed on bitcoin. I don't do bitcoin either so that comment is out of my consideration. I assume he meant that the price of either GPU will not change because they were not affected by the bitcoin mining in the first place.
A 1080ti will last longer. This is the crux of the argument. Like I said before I want this build to last as long as possible. I imagined doing this once only and not worrying about it anymore for as long as I can. I don't want to do any incremental upgrades either. My friends knows this, and says a 1080ti will be relevant even when the 1100 series comes out. Or at the very least it will outlast the 1070 by 2 years, if not 3.
In terms of how long I'm willing to keep the pc, I've been willing to play games at the lowest graphical quality and 30fps for the last 8 years. At times even worse than that. My friends (read: plural, not just the other pc builder) think it's because I haven't been exposed and a good gaming desktop will change my mind. I decided to accept their advice, but I still want to make the pc last for as long as it can. I plan to keep it all the way until the pc can only run games at, once again, lowest quality 30fps. At which point I plan to begin overclocking to squeeze out the last bits of value. So now I'm leaning towards buying a 1080ti; but in case my friend had incorrect information what do you all think? How long would you predict the 1080ti will last vs the 1070? Alternatively, if I buy a normal 1080 as a compromise, is that even a smart thing to do? A Few Extra Questions I will also admit that I might have my priorities all backwards. Even if a 1080ti could last that long, would you predict the GPU will "break" or essentially stop working due to age? I've read that there's no telling when a GPU will break. If mine breaks after 20 days... so will my heart. I live in a Mediterranean climate as well, which I understand is not the best, but is there anything I can do on my end to prolong its life? And if you say liquid cooling, I'd need a strong argument as to why. Because:
For one, I've already bought an air fan (though I admit I could easily buy another).
Two, I don't want my place to be any hotter than it needs to be. I heard that although liquid cools better the radiator makes the room hotter and (Mediterranean climate) + (indoor radiator heat) = don't want.
Three, I don't want to ever replace/fix a leaking problem in the entire time I own it.
Lastly, I do care about fan noise if you have any input concerning that. Thanks. The PC Build PCPartPicker part list (See price listed in table, not price in link)
Swiss Alps Mining & Energy Gives The ‘Next Generation’ Of Crypto Mining Efficiency.
Key Factors of the SAE Mining Farms
In order to be profitable, it is essential to be efficient in all the factors that influence the cryptocurrency mining. SAE has taken into account a solution for all relevant factors:
Infrastructure: they take on disused structures that cannot be inhabited, which avoids the high costs in commercial property rentals.
SAM Cube: mining is evolving in the creation of mining farms within adapted containers which facilitates the transport of mining farms to a new location. SAE developed its own mobile farm in prefabricated and fast-mountable SAM Cubes. The Cubes improve the transport and design of containers used for maritime transportation. They are self-contained and operate autonomously thus achieving a maximum efficient mining for maximum profit. SAM Cubes have two models available.
SAM Unit 1: with dimensions of 4x2x2 meter, with ASICs miners and a global hashrate of 700 TH/s on Bitcoin (equivalent to 50 Antminer S9 model – 14 TH/s) or several RIGs’ miners and a global hashrate of 4,000 MH/s on Ethereum (equivalent to 80 GPU GTX 1080 ti model – 50 MH/s).
SAM Unit 2: with dimensions of 8x2x2 meter, doubles the hashrate offered on the SAM Unit 1.
Organic Rankine Cycle (ORC): is a system installed in the cubes which facilitates the process of energy recovery, taking advantage of the waste heat generated by the mining process in order to recover energy and decrease energy consumption by drastically.
Natural Cooling: SAM Cubes are located at high altitudes in the Swiss Alps with a temperature of up to 30°C and an annual average temperature of below 15°C, achieving that additional air conditioning systems are not needed, avoiding cooling equipment expenses and electric consumption.
Horizontal and Vertical Growth: With the funds raised in the ICO, SAE will be used to finance the development and expansion of mining facilities and to acquire holdings in hydropower plants. With the acquisition of hydroelectric plants, the energy used will be self-produced, reducing energy costs.
Responsible Mining: additionally, the mining activity will be eco-friendly since the Cube have dust-protected mining components, the energy comes from renewable sources and the heat emitted is used to create its own energy thanks to the Cubes’ ORC system.
[Discussion] My own personal guide to used hardware alternatives.
Hi there. My name is Jeff. I've been building systems for the better part of 15 years and try my best to contribute here actively. After being involved in this little community for a few years now, I'm noticing a serious lack of discussion about buying used components, and I feel like it's time to shed a little light on the subject for those looking to build on a (seriously) tight budget. As Linus said in his scrapyard wars video, buying new on $300 isn't practical, and if you posed the challenge to him on a random day, buying used is almost certainly the path he'd choose. As someone who's been "scrapyarding" as a hobby for the better part of 10 years, I figured I'd take some time to share some of what I've learned for the modern audience. Let's begin with a simple rundown of modern "budget" choices, and I'll tell you what I'd do instead. CPU The G3258 and Athlon 860k are the sub-$100 CPUs of choice, and both work just fine. I have built with both in the past, and each carries their own set of advantages. Used Alternatives: You can go in a couple of directions here; if you happen to have an LGA 1366 motherboard lying around, you can get an i7 920 or better for under $50, and they still hold up reasonably well. Being that LGA 1366 boards are not typically cheap when purchased used, my favourite option is the Phenom II x4 Black Edition series, each of which compare favourably to modern budget options, and will even overclock on some incredibly dated, dirt cheap AM2+ boards. In my experience, eBay prices on these get a little too high for my taste, but I've been able to nab several on Kijiji locally in Toronto for under $50 as well. GPU The R7 260x and GTX 750 ti are often cited as budget options for most builders, with the latter serving a very specific role in systems where power draw might be a concern. While there exists no option that can complete with the low consumption of the 750 ti (or even the single 6-pin connector goodness of the 260x), its performance can easily be matched (and exceeded) for less money. Used Alternatives: The bitcoin mining craze from a few years back led to the Radeon 7950 and 7970 being blacklisted on the used market, and I think the fears about burned-out cards are a little overblown. Here in Toronto, you can easily grab a 7950 for the price of a 260x, but I don't pay anywhere near that for my builds. At most, a Windforce will cost me $125, as where I recently picked up some non-boost edition PowerColor versions for a mere $83 each (bought 3 for $250). EDIT: Forgot to mention something important - avoid the reference 7950 and 7970. They were employed to a far greater degree in mining rigs because of their rear-only exhaust, and if you see a bunch of them from the same seller listed at once, they're likely old mining cards. Only pick them up if they're incredibly cheap. Want to go even cheaper? The Radeon 6950 (with the shader unlock, preferably) or even the 6970 will rival the performance of the 260x, and shouldn't cost Canadians more than $50-$60. I personally have 2 in my possession right now, and have gone through at least a dozen in the last 6 months. In general, one should always avoid Nvidia when buying used, because they are far too popular and overvalued for their performance as they age. I still see GTX 660s selling for $150, which is absolutely absurd. Motherboards Motherboards on the used market are weird, and this can largely be attributed to the fact that they're hard to transport and don't handle well over time. As such, people don't really sell boards on their own that often, and you'll likely have more luck finding a combo of some kind (or even a ready-to-go tin-can with no graphics card) for less per part than you will finding a given board on its own. Used Alternatives: The boards I'd recommend depend entirely on the CPU you've chosen. Being that I'm a fan of the Phenom II x4 series, AM2+ boards are going to be dirt cheap, but DDR2 RAM is actually fucking expensive, so you'd likely be better off going with AM3. I've even seen some used AM3+ boards (The 970 ASRock Extreme3, in particular) for as low as $40, so it wouldn't hurt to look. On the Intel side, you're actually at a significant disadvantage. Much like Nvidia cards, Intel boards (and CPUs) actually retain their value and don't often come cheap. For me, LGA 1156 is the price/performance sweet spot, granted I can find an i7 8XX to go with it. Even still, they're going to run you a fair bit more than an AMD board, and likely aren't worth it by comparison. RAM Ram is ram. DDR2 is pricy as fuck due to an obvious market shortage of the stuff, so the AM2+ board option might not be best by comparison. DDR3 ram, however, is ubiquitous, and I always die a little inside when people building on a "budget" choose to buy new at all. If I'm being honest, I can get DDR3 ram from e-waste recycling companies for as low as $10 per 4GB stick, at 1333MHz, and not once have I ever had a bad stick of the stuff. Even for people going the route of the G3258 (which only supports 1333MHz), this is the clear winner. Is value RAM ugly as sin? Sure it is. It is just as good as that fancy Ripjaws shit you've got in your current build? You betcha. Storage Hard Drives are actually a tricky game, as they are the single most volatile component in any budget build, easily succumbing to wear and tear from age and daily use. As such (and some might find this hard to believe) I actively avoid HDDs when building value systems for people and opt for cheap SSDs instead. As always, check the date on a drive if you're really insistent on buying one, and considering how cheap a WD blue is new, don't pull the trigger on one unless it's for less than $30/TB. SSDs are obviously (akin to RAM) highly resilient and are nearly guaranteed to work when purchased used. The average SSD pulled from an old laptop or an office off-lease desktop, will have no more than 100GB of writes on it, which leaves 99% of its life for you to exploit. While there exists no specific recommendation for which brand to buy, just be sure you're getting a relatively good drive with SATA III capability. 120/128GB variants of these sorts should cost you no more than $50 in my native Canada, and I've even gotten lucky on some larger sizes too. Recently I picked up 4 256GB Samsung 840 Pros for $75 each (I came), just days after I bought a Crucial MX100 of the same size for $85. Monitors Monitors are fun to buy, because the recent shifts in display technology have rendered a lot of recent-but-obsolete models nearly valueless. For example, remember when 16:10 was a thing? I actually still like 1680x1050 monitors, but the rest of the world seems to disagree, so I've been able to pick up 23" variants for as little as $40. Being that the slightly lower resolution actually eases the strain on your VRAM a bit, it's a nice fit for a lot of budget cards that might not have a full 2GB available, like some variants of the 6950. 1600x900 monitors are often just as cheap and come with the same inherent benefit of being obsolete despite being almost as good as its bigger 1080p cousin. Keyboards and Mice If you're on a budget, we can't even have this discussion. As much as I like mechanical keyboards and high-precision gaming mice, people building used $300 systems aren't going to allot any of their budget buying them. That said, wired USB keyboards and mice are virtually free (search your local goodwill or value village for some), and if you have to pay money, buy a wireless combo for $20 new from some little shit store in a suburb somewhere. Cases Cases on their own sell for about half of their original retail price, give or take based on the condition. I normally just get them as a part of a tin-can bundle and make use of them if they aren't too dirty, but when building for someone else, I'd often just prefer to buy a new budget case in the $40 range. PSUs I saved this topic for last, because it's by far the most difficult category to master. First off, you really need to do your research and understand how PSUs work before delving into these guys, as the cost associated is almost entirely dependent on how resilient the underlying platform has been proven to be. Generally speaking, reading reviews on JonnyGuru and HardOCP is a great start, but none of them account for units that are several years old. As a general rule of thumb, I use the EVGA 500W W1 as a reference point, and build my value tree around that. In other words, if a new EVGA 500W (a passable, proven budget unit) is cheaper than a used 500W variant of a better brand, why would I bother buying used? Sure, that 520W Seasonic S12II puts the EVGA to shame in terms of voltage regulation and ripple suppression, but can I really make the same claims of a unit that's 5 years into its life? Wouldn't I just be safer buying new? These are all factors you have to consider. For me, the threshold lies around 50% in terms of cost savings vs. risk. In other words, if you can find a used quality unit for less than half the price of the cheapest quality unit available at a given time, buy it. Anyhow I think that covers everything. And as a closing note, remember to be safe. Meet potential sellers (and buyers) in public, well-lit places, and try your best to avoid entering someone's home without some protections in place. Also, the more info you get about the person (address, phone number, etc) the less likely it is that a person will be trying to scam you. People who purposely conceal their identity do so for a reason. Also, feel free to ask me anything about my own experiences buying and selling used. I've been doing it as a hobby for a long, long time and have sold many value builds to people who can't otherwise afford PCs. I'm happy to impart any wisdom I might've gained over the years. Edit: CPU Coolers! Forgot those. Air coolers are a safe bet. They're slabs of copper and aluminum with fans strapped to them. Buy with confidence, and seek one out for $10-$15 if you plan to overclock. AIO water cooling is not so safe. Those things are typically only good for 2-3 years, and you have no idea how much longer a pump has before it gives. Budget builders likely aren't water-cooling anyhow, right? Edit 2: Just to be clear, when I said I'd been doing this for a long time, I should clarify that a) I once owned a game store and sold systems out of there and b) I currently resell systems out of my house to raise money for charity builds. I really don't want people to get the impression I'm trying to sell anything.
Wanna Build a Hybrid Value/Performance PC? No Budget; Preferably $900-$1,700 PLS Help!
Wanna Build a Hybrid Value/Performance PC? PLS Help! Ok so, I have never built a PC and have a relative baseline of knowledge on computer parts. I’ve been learning about specs, different parts, and how pc’s can be specifically built for specific purposes over the past 3 weeks. So if you do want to help, know that I’m not ENTIRELY clueless, and that I’m not here to waste your time. With that being said, let’s get into it. Intro: I’m looking to build a pc. I have a 2013 Macbook Air. Base model, but with 256gb of ssd. The Laptop isn’t exactly satisfying my needs anymore, and so here I am. What I will use this pc for: I’m going to be browsing and streaming video with up to 100 tabs open at once. I’ll be gaming playing 1st/3rd person shooters (Battlefield, PUBG) and LoL. I might get into strategy games like Ashes or Civ 6; maybe action/adventure as well. Idk yet. I MIGHT have some LIGHT content creation (Youtube), but honestly I will probably be too lazy and time consumed to waste energy here. W Sony Vegas I will most likely have multiple browsers and tabs open and gaming at the same time. I will probably also be using 2 monitors at a time as well (Multi-display is preferable) MUST HAVE SPEC(S) FOR THE PC: Wifi Compatibility - I’m in the other corner of my parents’ house and won’t move out for a year or so. So this is a MUST HAVE. Period. Value (I seriously do not want to waste my money. I need bang for buck. MIND YOU, I am also willing to spend it if the value is there.) This is also a MUST HAVE. Btw I don’t give a shit about rbg or color schemes. lol let’s build a sleeper…. Preferred Specs: Value - I have come to find over the past 3 weeks that I care for this A LOT. I have no budget, but don’t want to spend more than $1,500 - $1,800 on the PC alone. Only the PC. Doesn’t include Monitor, keyboard, mouse, desk, chair, ect. Longevity - I want to get a good, Upper-mid tier pc that won’t need GPU or CPU Upgrading for 4-6 years. Solid Graphics - I am not going to buy any processor with lesser power than a Geforce GTX 1060. The 1060 and 980 are as low as I’ll go. Right now I’m looking at a 1070 or 1070 Ti, maybe a 1080, probably not a 1080 Ti. Upper Class CPU - I don’t care if it’s AMD or Intel. Ryzen is SLIGHTLY better with content creation and is slightly cheaper, but remember, I’m here for Gaming. I’m more than fine with intel if i get more bang for buck. Currently looking at Ryzen 5 2600X. I’M OPEN FOR SUGGESTIONS AND BETTER VALUE OPTIONS! Ram - I hate to shovel out money here, but i will. DDR4 8GB @2400 Min 16GB Max SSD - Currently Looking at a Samsung Evo 850 (I think, can’t remember) Motherboard - I will probably be upgrading this PC overtime, So I kind of want a mid-tier Motherboard that can support future upgrades Compatability - No shit. Need a compatible motherboard and compatable parts Additional Air Fan(s) - I want my pc cool man…. Not spending money here Monitor - At least 144hz, lower input latency, 1080p is fine. I don’t need 1440 or higher. I know this also plays into what the CPU and GPU are capable of. I don’t care for curved or wide monitors either. Don’t care. Power Supply: 650W Gold 550W Gold might be fine though. I’m not planning on overclocking, but if I become interested over the years, I’ll just upgrade this. Cable Management - Who doesn't want this nowadays? Non-Preferred Specs: Liquid Cooling - I will upgrade to this over time Customized Case - Eh. Take it or leave it. I won’t spend more than $100 here. Hard Drive - I don’t care really. 1Tb, 2TB, 3TB. I actually bought a 2TB HDD that has never been used for my PS4, so if I can use that for the PC then cool. I might have to look that up, or get informed. I assume it’s possible and easy. RGB - Idc GSYNC/FreeSync - Eh, yeah this is nice when playing Shooters, but it costs too much extra for such a minuscule impact Sound Card - LMAO. Don’t Bother Headset - Have one Mouse - Have a Corsair MMO mouse. IDK what it’s called. Cost about $55 (Gaming) Chair - Not necessary and I have one anyways Yes, I have left some components out. So in the end, Im looking for either a budget option between $700-$1,200 or just a solid gaming PC between $1,200-$1,700. I’ve tried going to local stores, but i’ve been getting quoted $200-$500 just to build the pc, which is absurd. I’ve also looked into Pre-built Pcs because of bitcoin and precious metal mining racking up GPU and Ram Prices. If you’re interested here are the PC’s I’ve been looking at and semi-decent pricing:
So yeah that’s where I am. I can currently build a PC like #4 for around $1300 Brand new, even though I have no fucking clue as to what I’m doing, Which would save about $100-$130. On a side note: Im currently thinking about building a value pc for $700-$900 as an entry level pc, and then building a stronger one over the years. I also would love for my Pc to be mobile given my current living situation. With those two things being said, Would a Mini PC be a decent option? NOW, Keep In mind I’m Playing League with a 2013 MacBook Air @ 25-35 FPS Average going as low as 6FPS (Yes…Fucking Six…) with Constant App crashes on a BLAZING Intel HD 5000 GPU, 1.3GHz Intel Core I5-4250U, and 4MB DDR3 @1,600Mhz of Ram. Yeah. Kill me….. I’m Looking at these currently: https://store.zotac.com/magnus-en1060-plus-i3-zbox-en1060-p-u-i3Magnus EN1060 PLUS I3 SKU: ZBOX-EN1060-P-U-I3 https://store.zotac.com/magnus-en1060k-zbox-en1060k-u Magnus EN1060K SKU: ZBOX-EN1060K-U At first glance I thought they looked like shit, but I can take them anywhere, and are cheaper than buying a laptop with the same specs. To Wrap It Up: Is it worth it to buy a pre-built with the market conditions? Is it worth it to buy a budget Mini-PC given my living conditions and Lifestyle? (I’m always going over to friends’ dorms and apartments for the weekend as well. I forgot to mention that) Or do you guys wanna help craft a VALUE gaming pc capping out at $1,700? That sounds like the most fun to me personally. PLEASE HELP! I’m easy to work with and will POUR over any information you guys give me. I Love to learn, I take spending my money seriously, and I need some serious help here. Maybe you guys could school me on what to look for when comparing CPUs as well. I’ve noticed that base speeds aren’t everything, but cores and threads aren’t always everything either.
Selling parts of my mining assets. 20 miners total, 6x GPUs per miner. All miners are enclosed in 4RU 19-inch server cases for telecom racks. - 10x miners with Sapphire RX 480 Nitro and Nitro+ GPUs, 30x 8Gb with Samsung RAM, 30x with 4Gb RAM (Hynix, Elpida, Samsung). GPU BIOS patched, undervolted, been mining Ethereum. - 10x miners with Sapphire R9 Fury 4Gb GPUs. GPU BIOS patched, undervolted, been mining zCash and XMR All miners are recently cleaned and air-blown though still have some dust. 20x 6xPCIE motherboards with Celeron G1840 CPU and 4G of RAM and 16Gb SSD drives: 14x Biostar TB85 mobos, Other 6 mobos are Asrock z97x KilleH81, MSI Gaming 5/G45. TB85 sets purchased from GPUshack.com with Ethos licenses. R9 rigs have 2 PSUs, both are 1000W ButterflyLabs ProMiner Gold 80 PSUs. RX480 rigs have 1x 1200W ButterflyLabs ProMiner Gold 80 PSU. Each miner is equipped with 3x 120mm 150cfm fans for cooling. R9 cases are better than RX480 boxes: can fit 2 PSUs. Also 4x R9 miner cases are from Greymatter, bought at $500 each. Assembly of all miners has been performed by my hosting provider: not perfect but functional. Bonus: 1x APC 7998 network-enabled 12.5kW rack PDU. Pick up from the Dalles, OR (85 miles from Portland, OR). Miners are still with my hosting service provider there, hence no timestamps on pics. Selling everything for $20k. Cash preferred but other options will be considered. Parting out will be considered if no interest for complete set. Pics of miners: https://imgur.com/a/pclfAgkhttps://imgur.com/a/AVvJjSshttps://imgur.com/a/QPE1W2Ohttps://imgur.com/a/YtvQkYD Ethos panel: https://imgur.com/a/R3UEucm BitcoinTalk Link to Contact
I'm looking to get 2 2GB 6950's to run my eyefinity setup for bf3. Which models would offer me the best performance/overclocking headroom? I'm running an asus p6t7 board with an incredibly excessive 7 pci-e slots, so spacing them out shouldn't be an issue. I've been considering the Twin Frozr 2 and the ASUS DC II. Any reccomendations?
Hello Everyone, I have this suggestion on a way to passively earn bitcoin in this game. I’m not that great at making posts but I’ll try. So bitcoin is rare to find and hard to obtain compared to the other currencies in the game. What if they introduced bitcoin mining? The way it would work- The player needs to collect PC parts from raids to build their “mining rig” such as :
Hard Drive or SSD
Once the player has all the required stuff in their stash the computer case would have a modding feature just like the weapons do, you attach the Required parts and it stays in your stash and starts mining bitcoin. There’s 2 Things that determine how much bitcoin you mine and at how fast of rate you mine it, the CPU and Graphics cards will come in tiers and will also be from common to rarest. Example: CPU:
(These numbers are just examples the Devs could change and add what they see is fit) Computer Cases - Computer cases, will determine what you can fit, but each one will always have the slots for the necessary parts for a computer. The bigger cases can fit better GPUs and has extra Drive slots for hard drives and DVDs(not required for mining). Small case-
slots for all the necessary PC parts.
Can fit only a 1050.
Has 1 drive slot of your choice.
Has 1 GPU slot.
slots for all the necessary PC parts.
Can fit all GPUs up to 1070.
Has 2 drive slots of your choice.
Has 1 GPU slot.
slots for all the necessary PC parts.
Can fit all GPUs up to 1080.
Has 3 drives slots of your choice.
Has 2 GPU slots.
slots for all the necessary PC parts.
Can fit all GPUs up to a Titan.
Has 4 drive slots of your choice.
Has 3 GPU slots.
PSU: Will give a speed bonus to rate of yield depending on tier. Standard PSU- 2% Rate of yield bonus.
Will be able to run only 1 GPU.
Upgraded PSU- 5% Rate of yield bonus.
Will be able to run 2 GPUs.
Extreme PSU- 10% Rate of yield bonus. (super rare)
will be able to run 3 GPUs.
Drives- Storage drives are used for bitcoin storage instead of the player having to put their bitcoin in other slots if they don’t want to. Hard Drive:
Stores up to 1 full bitcoin (5 0.2 bitcoins)
Stores up to 2 full bitcoins (10 0.2 bitcoins)
DVD drives-(fun feature) DVD drives are used for playing CDs and DVDs you find around Tarkov. For example when you find a music disc and place it in the DVD whenever you return from a raid or whenever you enter the menu of the game it automatically plays the Song you have in your DVD drive. would be cool for the game economy as well with common to super rare discs. Rig Maintenance - In-order to prevent people from AFKing from the game for long periods of time and coming back to loads of bitcoins, Rigs will require monthly maintenance. How Rig maintenance would work: You need to recollect and reinstall these parts during your PCs monthly maintenance in order to keep your Rig going:
1 Circuit board
Since GPU and CPU won’t require replacing you would need to find a “Compressed Air Duster can” to clean them. (all of this is just a suggestion the devs could change what they feel is balanced that's if they do use this idea) P.S I really love EFT its a one of a kind game and has potential to become the best MMORPGFPS game out there. . Credit to Bertmacklen on the EFT forums for the More GPU slots suggestion.
A good news for everyone. GPU price drop in 2018. Finally, you can see and buy one at a reasonable price in India. For a long time, the price of a graphics card keeps on increasing due to which it was impossible for someone to build a custom PC over pre-built PC’s. Because both of them cost exactly same for a certain specification. Let me give you a brief, the launch price of Gtx GeForce 1070 is INR. 35,000 but due to hike & hype the price rises up to INR 50,000 which is an increase of 15%. WHAT DOES A GRAPHICS CARD DO? Basically, a GPU (Graphics processor unit) is a microprocessor specialized for video calculation. It will take a load of video calculation from your computer & calculate if for you so, that your CPU can run and do other tasks more effective & efficiently. Graphics card has a much faster RAM and the processor which help it to do the certain task like games, video rendering etc more productively. WHY HIKE IN PRICE? Before addressing how much drop & supply is now available on the market. Let us see why price hiked in the first place. The main reason for the hike in the price of GPU’s is Cryptocurrency & Cryptomining -Cryptocurrency mining, or crypto mining, is a process in which transactions for various forms of cryptocurrency are verified and added to the blockchain digital ledger. Also known as crypto coin mining, altcoin mining, or Bitcoin mining (for the most popular form of cryptocurrency, Bitcoin), cryptocurrency mining has increased both as a topic and price of GPU because for a while now GPU’s are the necessary equipment for mining. And there are also some other things like less production, company strategies in it. WHY GPU PRICE DROP IN INDIA? AND BY HOW MUCH? There are several reasons for the GPU price drop. The main area is following:- SAIC (Specialized application integrated chip) Overflow of cards 11th series GPU cards SAIC (Specialized application integrated chip) – It is a hardware feature for the people who want to do a specific work like mining. These chip help miners to do crypto mining. It is a specific specialized chip made for performing mining work more effectively than a graphics card. And it is now available in every market. Therefore all the miner are moving towards this hardware. Because it has more life, can do more & it cost cheaper than a graphics card. The overflow of cards – Due to SAIC hardware and less demand of GPU in the market. The companies now have a pile of GPU’s laying around, plus the old miners are selling their used graphics cards in cheap on e-commerce websites. So, right now the GPU’s like Nvidia GeForce series is available on discount. 11th series GPU cards – There is a confirmation in the market that NVIDIA will release 11th series graphics card on June 11th. It is been 2 years since last launch GPU’s by Nvidia, therefore, they will launch something new this year, that is why they are selling out cheap. WHICH CARD PROVIDE BEST VALUE? If you are on a budget, then you are probably thinking which card will give me the best value for money. So, If you have a budget of 10-15k go with GTX 1050 ti, not with 1050. And I suggest if you are willing to spend some more then skip GeForce 1060 and buy Geforce 1070 or 1070 ti founder edition. Because it will last longer and you can enjoy any title on high setting with more than 60fps. WHAT & WHY FOUNDER EDITION CARD? Founder edition is a card manufactured & retail only by Nvidia. Other cards other than founder edition are called custom cards which are manufactured by other companies like ASUS & MSI. They also have same specification and features sometimes more than Founder edition. So, why founder edition card. The main reason and difference is the heat dispense system inside the founder edition card. In India, not everyone has a fully air-conditioned room hence, therefore, the PC case needed to be properly ventilated. gpu vents And the problem with custom cards is that their fan dispenses all the hot air inside the case itself. While on another hand the Founder edition cards dispense all the air directly outside the case through vents on the left side. If you do not have a cooling problem go with custom cards because they are cheap and sometimes better than FC cards. HOW MANY DROP IN GPU PRICE TRENDS? GPU PRICE TRENDS GPU PRICE TRENDS The price drop is significant almost about 40% you can buy these card now directly from any e-commerce website but some websites are still selling them at hiked prices. So, you can head on NVIDIA India for the best price or MDcomputers.in.
Up to $120 bounties for answering altcoin mining questions
I'm thinking about sinking some major money into mining. Probably $15,000 to $20,000. Not all up front but sliding into it pretty quickly. I've got about three rigs up and running with ethereum but I have several issues I want input on. I am setting aside a $40 bounty for the three top answers ($20 for the top, two $10 for the runner ups) paid in bitcoins. I will be posting this in several places. If there is a REALLY good answer I will offer an additional $80 (total of $100) for the top answer. This is my research that may save me from making a big mistake. I live in the Midwest with temperature that hits 100f / 38c for 3 to 4 consecutive months a year. I want to run this operation in my garage. Cooling. This is by far my biggest concern. I live in the Midwest with three months of 100f / 38c per year. I've dealt with this before with litecoin. I don't want to have to air condition. In my previous experience fans aren't adequate. Will this gpu be able to stay cool at the temps I've mentioned without air conditioning? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814131676 If not … does anyone have experience using dialetric fluid / oil to submersible the cards in? I'm going to have to cool the oil somehow right? Is there a book way to do this? (Drop sealed containers of ice in the vat, pump it thru an oil radiator? Hardware. As linked above I'm leaning towards the 390X to try to retain value a year from now. I'm thinking of using this motherboard http://www.amazon.com/ASRock-Motherboard-H81-PRO-BTC/dp/B00HEUIS2G USB risers. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Powered-PCI-E-Express-1X-To-16X-Extender-Riser-Card-With-60CM-USB-3-0-Cable-/301105921855?hash=item461b4fbf3f:g:oGMAAMXQuTNTMSBV Mining. Has anyone developed a proprietary ether miner they are selling? Has vertcoin or monero mining stayed profitable with a .09 kw electric rate between the litecoin dropout and today if you are able to get a good cooling (non ac) system in place? Power. I'm leaning towards this as my PSU. http://holybitcoin.com/product/dps-2000bb-breakout-adapter-board/ (I know I'll have to install a fan for the PSU). I'm fairly comfortable with the electric side of things until it gets to the PSU (I understand amps, volts, watts, and required wire gauges. Any warnings on running server PSUs?
I've started working on modifying the Vive wireless adapter for better passive cooling.
First and foremost: I voided my warranty, this is not a how to, this is an attempt to see if anyone else is working on a similar solution and to get as much input from as many people as possible. Please chime in if you have any thoughts on the subject. I have the Pro version, which means the adapter is under more strain, it's constantly at the bandwidth limit in most games. I have no background in engineering nor am I in any way qualified to do this, but I did mine bitcoin back in the day and learned a lot about heat accumulation and dissipation. My proudest achievement was running a 6 GPU rig on my balcony for a year consecutively in Finland with the ambient temperature of -30c to +40c. Almost nothing ever caught fire :) This experience leads me to think that it's a bad idea to draw more power trough the headset, from the same battery for a fan. Also I have long hair and am downright afraid of adding a fan to my head. I have begun to cut off some, not all of the, "plastic strips" covering the openings in the adapter. I intend to remove about half of them, every other to be exact, removing all seems like it could weaken the "chassis" too much. If that is not sufficient then I'll open the entire thing out and try to figure out if there are spots where small aluminum heat sinks could be added without interfering with the reception. What material would be the least interfering with the reception whilst having the greatest possible thermal conductivity? The answer is probably not metal at all? Here's where I began, I intend to go back and smooth the edges, possibly with a soldering iron: https://imgur.com/a/smMdT7n I'll try to post updates in comments as the chopping progresses, hopefylly we see some input before entirely "gut the sucker" :) Anyone considering adding a fan might want to cut off the "plastic strips" covering the openings in the adapter from beneath the spot you intend to add the fan to, especially if you intend to glue the fan on to the adapter. Actually I can guarantee this will improve the (unknown to me) efficiency of your fan mod by a double digit %. [edit1] I have removed roughly half of the strips and done some testing, not enough to say anything conclusive, but the adapter seems slightly cooler after and during intense use. I did play a full battery's worth of Skyrim without seeing a grey screen, this has happened before, but not that often. I discovered the back "plastic strip" has a clip that's holding the enclosure together. Had I known this I would of not cut it, looks like it missing wont be a problem tough. I have clearly created openings that will gather dust, so from here on I'll make a routine of blasting the adapter with air duster from time to time. It's obviously also more vulnerable to liquids now, but I don't see any sweat getting in from the top and sides where the modifications are. Has anyone opened the adapter up, does a teardown guide exist? [edit2] It just occurred to me that anyone using a fan mod would achieve greater efficiency by running a split usb cable, so the fan does not draw power trough the headset. If my current tinkering proves inefficient I will probably go this way myself. Having the fan pull air trough the top of the headset, rather than pushing it in. [edit3] 10 hours of gaming in and I haven't seen a grey/blue screen yet. Apart from one IRQ error, those usually bsod my whole computer. Unfortunately I seem to be stuck on that front because my mobo's bios dosen't seem to include any IRQ settings at all. [edit4] Haven't seen a grey screen since the modifications, but my holodeck is in a room that gets no heating, so the ambient temperature has been 5-10c less than usual. So I'm pretty sure I have no valid findings to report atm. I will, only, continue working on the adapter as the problems re-emerge. Doing anything now seems like fumbling in the dark. [edit5] Been slightly warmer so yesterday when I fired up Moss and turned the graphics options all the way up I experienced the first grayscreen that lasted longer than a second and did not recover on it's own after beginning modifying the adapter. This was after ~20 minutes of playing. So I proceeded on with the chopping, I promise pictures soon but atm there is no light, I have now cut all the strips on all the sides, 6 out of the 18 strips on the top mid part remain and 1/3 on the horn's remain. Please note that I've concluded that cutting the strips on the horns does absolutely nothing heat wise, so knowing what I know now I'd leave them be. I'm about to attempt to overheat the thing with Moss next and if I succeed, I'll start looking at usb fans. [edit5] Did not overheat this time around, regardless I'm looking at fans. Optimal sizes seem like 5cm or 7.5cm diameter. As explained earlier I'll go for a "split cable" or "passthrough" to avoid running any extra current trough the adapter. I'm pretty sure no ones reading this, but I'll keep updating it and will re-publish if I feel like I've gotten the issue sorted. Not covering the button seems harder than anticipated, I should move it... but I don't feel comfortable doing that. I guess I'll order a bunch of fans and see what works out once I have them in hand. Note to self: the added usb cable/'s should run under, not over the adapter. So that we don't introduce copper wires to block or hinder the signal. This means the minimum cable length is ~13cm. Arctic cooling can move 15.1 CFM / 25.7 m³/h @ 0.08 Sone (@ 1,200 RPM) with a 8cm fan. Settling for less than half of this would be madness. USB to 2 x 3/4-Pin PWM 5V USB Sleeved Dual Fan Power Adapter Cable exists, were not settling for less :) I orderedhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077PXJRTT/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 mainly because they did not attempt to screw me over with shipping costing more than the 800% markup product. and https://www.arctic.ac/eu_en/f8-silent.html because they make the best products in the field. at 5v this runs at 400 rpm, completely silent and still shifting 5 CFM or 8.5 m³/h. If this proves inefficient I can try running it with a separate 9V battery, no speed is indicated for 9V, but that'd reach 700-800 RPM and increase the airflow at the same rate. Still looking for usb male to male type a splitter (all male) these don't seem to exist : / [edit6] Gave a try using a soldering iron to smooth the openings and cut edges, not a huge success, but gets the job done. https://imgur.com/a/8ZvZovl [edit7] Did some log digging, things are bad: The latest log is three days old, it shows the adapter consistently hitting 80c and during one session, I suspect it's Moss, but can't be sure, it gets really bad: " [2018-12-30 16:41:32.769 +2 0x28CC INFO LOG] (ControlCenter)Link Condition Change : peerSignalQuality = 4, performanceQuality = 3 [2018-12-30 16:41:33.807 +2 0x2898 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=84, R_Temperature=48 [2018-12-30 16:41:43.804 +2 0x2898 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=85, R_Temperature=51 " The first disruption I can find is: "[2018-12-30 17:28:47.392 +2 0x28CC INFO LOG] (ControlCenter)Link Condition Change : peerSignalQuality = 255, performanceQuality = 3 [2018-12-30 17:28:47.510 +2 0x28CC INFO LOG] (ControlCenter)CallbackDeviceStatus : SDK_WIGIGFSM_STATE_STOPPED(3), reason = SDK_CURRENT_STATE_REASON_LINK_LOSS(1)" This is the worst I can find: "[2018-12-31 19:11:30.228 +2 0x28CC INFO LOG] (ControlCenter)Link Condition Change : peerSignalQuality = 4, performanceQuality = 3 [2018-12-31 19:11:30.257 +2 0x2898 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=82, R_Temperature=54 [2018-12-31 19:11:50.256 +2 0x2898 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=81, R_Temperature=53 [2018-12-31 19:12:00.261 +2 0x2898 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=82, R_Temperature=50 [2018-12-31 19:12:40.256 +2 0x2898 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=83, R_Temperature=50 [2018-12-31 19:13:00.258 +2 0x2898 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=82, R_Temperature=50 [2018-12-31 19:13:10.263 +2 0x2898 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=83, R_Temperature=54 [2018-12-31 19:13:20.257 +2 0x2898 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=82, R_Temperature=53 [2018-12-31 19:14:10.256 +2 0x2898 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=83, R_Temperature=50 [2018-12-31 19:14:20.260 +2 0x2898 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=82, R_Temperature=52 [2018-12-31 19:14:40.256 +2 0x2898 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=83, R_Temperature=53 [2018-12-31 19:14:50.261 +2 0x2898 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=82, R_Temperature=56 [2018-12-31 19:15:00.254 +2 0x2898 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=83, R_Temperature=55 [2018-12-31 19:15:10.261 +2 0x2898 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=82, R_Temperature=52 [2018-12-31 19:15:20.258 +2 0x2898 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=83, R_Temperature=52 [2018-12-31 19:15:30.260 +2 0x2898 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=82, R_Temperature=52 [2018-12-31 19:15:40.259 +2 0x2898 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=83, R_Temperature=52 [2018-12-31 19:15:50.257 +2 0x2898 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=82, R_Temperature=56 [2018-12-31 19:16:20.261 +2 0x2898 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=83, R_Temperature=58 [2018-12-31 19:16:30.257 +2 0x2898 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=82, R_Temperature=60 [2018-12-31 19:16:40.261 +2 0x2898 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=84, R_Temperature=52 [2018-12-31 19:17:00.255 +2 0x2898 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=83, R_Temperature=52 [2018-12-31 19:17:20.255 +2 0x2898 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=84, R_Temperature=54 [2018-12-31 19:17:30.262 +2 0x2898 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=82, R_Temperature=53 [2018-12-31 19:17:40.258 +2 0x2898 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=84, R_Temperature=57 [2018-12-31 19:17:50.261 +2 0x2898 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=83, R_Temperature=57 [2018-12-31 19:18:00.260 +2 0x2898 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=84, R_Temperature=52 [2018-12-31 19:18:10.255 +2 0x2898 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=83, R_Temperature=54 [2018-12-31 19:18:20.261 +2 0x2898 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=84, R_Temperature=53 [2018-12-31 19:18:40.230 +2 0x28CC INFO LOG] (ControlCenter)Link Condition Change : peerSignalQuality = 2, performanceQuality = 3 [2018-12-31 19:18:40.264 +2 0x2898 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=87, R_Temperature=52" 87c that's not a safe amount of heat to attach to the top of your head. That's also a temperature that would kill a GPU if constantly reached. And here's a snippet for the inevitable nay-sayer claiming I've made it worse it's from a day before the original post and before I made any modifications to the adapter: " [2018-12-22 20:09:07.271 +2 0x2BB4 INFO LOG] (ControlCenter)Link Condition Change : peerSignalQuality = 4, performanceQuality = 3 [2018-12-22 20:09:09.268 +2 0x2B78 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=86, R_Temperature=62 [2018-12-22 20:09:19.273 +2 0x2B78 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=84, R_Temperature=63 [2018-12-22 20:09:29.276 +2 0x2B78 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=85, R_Temperature=64 [2018-12-22 20:09:39.271 +2 0x2B78 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=86, R_Temperature=64 [2018-12-22 20:09:49.269 +2 0x2B78 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=85, R_Temperature=62 [2018-12-22 20:10:09.270 +2 0x2B78 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=86, R_Temperature=56 [2018-12-22 20:10:49.274 +2 0x2B78 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=87, R_Temperature=51 [2018-12-22 20:10:59.269 +2 0x2B78 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=85, R_Temperature=54 [2018-12-22 20:11:09.274 +2 0x2B78 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=86, R_Temperature=56 [2018-12-22 20:11:19.271 +2 0x2B78 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=87, R_Temperature=54 [2018-12-22 20:11:29.268 +2 0x2B78 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=86, R_Temperature=57 [2018-12-22 20:11:59.275 +2 0x2B78 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=85, R_Temperature=57 [2018-12-22 20:12:09.271 +2 0x2B78 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=86, R_Temperature=55 [2018-12-22 20:12:29.271 +2 0x2B78 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=85, R_Temperature=53 [2018-12-22 20:12:39.276 +2 0x2B78 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=86, R_Temperature=53 [2018-12-22 20:13:29.267 +2 0x2B78 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=85, R_Temperature=54 [2018-12-22 20:13:39.272 +2 0x2B78 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=87, R_Temperature=50 [2018-12-22 20:13:49.269 +2 0x2B78 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=85, R_Temperature=54 [2018-12-22 20:14:09.271 +2 0x2B78 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=86, R_Temperature=52 [2018-12-22 20:14:19.275 +2 0x2B78 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=87, R_Temperature=53 [2018-12-22 20:14:39.268 +2 0x2B78 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=85, R_Temperature=57 [2018-12-22 20:14:49.274 +2 0x2B78 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=86, R_Temperature=54 [2018-12-22 20:14:59.268 +2 0x2B78 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=84, R_Temperature=50 [2018-12-22 20:15:09.275 +2 0x2B78 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=85, R_Temperature=54 [2018-12-22 20:15:19.271 +2 0x2B78 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=86, R_Temperature=56 [2018-12-22 20:15:49.268 +2 0x2B78 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=87, R_Temperature=51 [2018-12-22 20:15:59.273 +2 0x2B78 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=86, R_Temperature=55 [2018-12-22 20:16:19.284 +2 0x2B78 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=87, R_Temperature=52 [2018-12-22 20:16:39.274 +2 0x2B78 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=85, R_Temperature=53 [2018-12-22 20:16:49.272 +2 0x2B78 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=86, R_Temperature=54 [2018-12-22 20:16:59.268 +2 0x2B78 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=87, R_Temperature=51 [2018-12-22 20:17:19.270 +2 0x2B78 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=85, R_Temperature=54 [2018-12-22 20:17:29.283 +2 0x2B78 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=87, R_Temperature=53 [2018-12-22 20:17:39.271 +2 0x2B78 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=86, R_Temperature=54 [2018-12-22 20:17:49.269 +2 0x2B78 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=87, R_Temperature=56 [2018-12-22 20:17:59.280 +2 0x2B78 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=86, R_Temperature=56 [2018-12-22 20:18:09.269 +2 0x2B78 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=85, R_Temperature=58 [2018-12-22 20:18:29.270 +2 0x2B78 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=86, R_Temperature=60 [2018-12-22 20:18:39.274 +2 0x2B78 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=87, R_Temperature=55 [2018-12-22 20:19:09.274 +2 0x2B78 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=88, R_Temperature=58 [2018-12-22 20:19:19.268 +2 0x2B78 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=87, R_Temperature=58 [2018-12-22 20:20:37.277 +2 0x2BB4 INFO LOG] (ControlCenter)Link Condition Change : peerSignalQuality = 3, performanceQuality = 3 [2018-12-22 20:20:39.276 +2 0x2B78 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=88, R_Temperature=54 [2018-12-22 20:20:41.277 +2 0x2BB4 INFO LOG] (ControlCenter)Link Condition Change : peerSignalQuality = 4, performanceQuality = 3 [2018-12-22 20:20:49.270 +2 0x2B78 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=86, R_Temperature=58 [2018-12-22 20:20:59.270 +2 0x2B78 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=88, R_Temperature=59 [2018-12-22 20:21:09.272 +2 0x2B78 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=87, R_Temperature=55 [2018-12-22 20:21:25.278 +2 0x2BB4 INFO LOG] (ControlCenter)Link Condition Change : peerSignalQuality = 3, performanceQuality = 3 [2018-12-22 20:21:31.278 +2 0x2BB4 INFO LOG] (ControlCenter)Link Condition Change : peerSignalQuality = 4, performanceQuality = 3 [2018-12-22 20:21:43.278 +2 0x2BB4 INFO LOG] (ControlCenter)Link Condition Change : peerSignalQuality = 3, performanceQuality = 3 [2018-12-22 20:21:46.277 +2 0x2BB4 INFO LOG] (ControlCenter)Link Condition Change : peerSignalQuality = 2, performanceQuality = 3 [2018-12-22 20:21:48.278 +2 0x2BB4 INFO LOG] (ControlCenter)Link Condition Change : peerSignalQuality = 4, performanceQuality = 3 [2018-12-22 20:21:49.276 +2 0x2B78 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=89, R_Temperature=52 " Now I'm not sure but I do suspect some officials would start recalls if they found out a device attached to the top of a consumers head reaches 89c, nevermind found a new high score: " [2018-12-25 07:58:03.486 +2 0x2B78 INFO LOG] M_Temperature=93, R_Temperature=70" [edit8] Fan arrived, I got the size right, but can't proceed to test before the cable arrives. I did think of a lazy but promising way of testing ways to mount the fan: I'mma just ziptie it to the horns and experiment at different angles with wedges of cardboard to hold it. The fan weighs 71g and the plastic strips that I've removed total about 6g. I'm pretty sure I can shave off up to 10g from the fans plastic components once I decide on a mounting style/method. There'd probably be an another 2g to shave off by shortening the power cable, but in my case I'll need a friend to do it for me and I was thinking of shortening the power adapter cable to the bare minimum too so might as well stack the jobs. I'm also scrounging for a net of some sort to keep my hair out of the fan, that'll obstruct the airflow like a mf especially as I'm adding one to both sides... but I'm hopeful that the fan is overkill enough to still do the job and keep me cooler during Beat Sabre.
Hi guys, I just recently joined this subreddit and i've been loving it so far! It's a really nice group of people it seems. It's the perfect place for me as I have been debating about my new upgrades in my office for a while. Currently, I have a desktop PC that's running Plex with 6 x 8 TB drives. It's my daily driver. Intel 8700K with 32GB of ram. I also have a mining rig which has 6 1070's that are watercooled. They are currently just venting into my office and its hot AF! I want to move those two computers into rackmount cases, as well as purchase a dedicated server for running plex through Unraid. So this means I am looking at getting the following:
Closed server rack with a vent in the front and the back - I am really interested in low levels of noise. I will have a 15inch exhaust fan that I will connect to the server rack in the back that will vent out to a ventilation shaft. In the front I will have a heavily filtered intake (we have a big dog and two cats - I swear their hair gets everywhere) . I am assuming a glass or full metal case would work best - I don't want mesh all over if at all possible, I'd prefer just the intake and outtake and I will ensure the exhaust fan in the back is sucking enough air out of it to keep it cool. I would assume the intake in the front might need to be pretty beastly to get enough fresh air.
At least a 16 port switch that can do 10GB internet - I will be getting the internet next March hopefully! I need this one urgently as my last 'dumb' switch just broke and I need to replace it ASAP.
Some sort of plex server that can handle at least 12 3.5 HDDs. I'd prefer this to be pretty beastly so I can run CPU transcodes, but I am up for doing GPU enabled transcodes too. We have about 15 people using the plex server, but rarely at the same time. I've been looking around at the different servers, are there any real stand outs that do really well for this usecase? Basically unraid plex server, radarr, sonarr, sabnzbd, as well as extra storage for my company files.
A server rack case for my primary daily driver desktop. I have two watercooled radiators in that. It seems I may need to go the linus tech tips route and have a server case custom designed for me? I've not seen any that may fit yet. Especially in europe.
A UPS that can support these. I am also interested in something that has decent power conditioning properties.
I am located in Prague, CZ & I don't know the local areas for these things, but first if you guys have recommendations on the above I would greatly appreciate it. Maybe just even a suggestion on where to look. Thanks!
Wanting to do water cooling for i7 980X and 2 (probably eventually 3) GTX 580s
At the beginning of the year, I was lucky enough to be able to put together an incredibly nice rig with the help of a friend. However, air cooling has turned out to be really insufficient when dealing with tasks that push the entire system to the limit - GPU hash cracking, Bitcoin mining, etc. I don't have any real experience with water cooling and neither does my friend who helped me with the original build, so we're really not entirely sure on what kind of setup I would need to have. Any advice?
Best Open Air Frame GPU Mining Case for Building a Mining Rig to Mine Cryptocurrencies that include Ethereum or ETH, ETC, Zcash, Litecoin, Monero, Bitcoin, Dogecoin, Earthcoin, and other Altcoins. Mining cases come in different capacities depending upon the number of graphics cards that you want to use. There are 6-GPU mining cases, 8-GPU mining cases, 12-GPU mining cases and so on. Single-phase, Liquid Immersion Cooling (SLIC) is the most cost effective way to get the maximum hashrate from any ASIC or GPU based miner. By immersing your mining hardware in our specially formulated BitCool BC-888 Dielectric Coolant you have the ability to dramatically reduce your overall power costs and dramatically increase your hashrates. From this summary, it would make more sense for a typical miner to stick to GPU mining rigs, unless they would prefer to specifically mine Bitcoin. However, with the continually higher difficulty incurred as more and more miners join the Bitcoin chain, a miner would likely need to invest in multiple ASIC miners for mining to be truly lucrative. No fans or air handling results in less energy wasted. Ask for immersion firmware! Safe & easy to install. Designed with simplicity and safe operation in mind. System deployment is as easy as assembling an IKEA kit. We provide full support for any scale or on-site installation. Noiseless Mining. Immersion in the liquid fully protects from temperature, humidity, dust and vibration or fire. No ... 26 GPU Mining Farm Cooling. This next build I must admit I don’t know what I was thinking, but after getting the itch for mining crypto, I decided to go big this time and build an 18’x20′ metal mining shop. Not only did I go big on buying the shop but also spent the next three months buying enough GPU’s to build 26 mining rigs.
Water Cooling for 8 GPU Mining Rig GTX 1080Ti - YouTube
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